Try doing some ‘mouth-work’ to familiarise her with having her mouth handled, but do take care in case she objects. Half-halt. A thinner than average bit is better for horses with a large tongue, and often a gently ported or double jointed bit will give more tongue space and allow the horse to swallow more easily. Yes, here it is again! Measure the horse's mouth. It’s an experimental process that takes time. The problem is that most horses have to develop some sort of coping mechanism to be able to hold their body in a position that allows for the bit release (also called "framing"). I do not know why you went to a curb bit when a snaffle is milder and tends to not produce the kind of 'fighting the bit' you are experiencing. It's important to teach your horse to soften vertically because whenever a horse's poll gets above the level of the saddle horn, your control of him is compromised. When he's ready to work, proceed at a posting trot (rising slightly out of the saddle every other step) on a loose rein, holding the middle of your reins with your inside hand. 5.TRUST Flexi-Soft Full Cheek Snaffle. The downside is that the horse will be limited to doing things, like trail riding, that doesn’t require any specific type of bit or bridle. I want my horses to like the bit. A cause and effect response (the horse finds a release when he releases) is fairly simple for horses and riders to learn and respond to. Then reverse directions, and again tip your horse's head both ways to achieve first lateral and then vertical flexion, always pitching the reins the instant you feel your horse soften, even just a little. It's relatively easy to get most horses to give to the bit in this manner. Are you saying to release FIRST? If possible the horse should stay in this bit from then on. The well-trained horse with a properly fitted bit can have the reins tied on with fishing line and one should not have to worry about it breaking. Try to avoid pulling too hard; your goal is to apply just enough steady pressure that your horse gives to the bit on his own. Historically, horses were trained for warfare, farm work, sport and transport. Consulting your vet and chiropractor is a good start, but you may need to dig deeper to discover the root of the bit chewing problem. Introduce the bit slowly - don't just expect to put it in your horses mouth and leave it there for hours. This comes after the half-halt. Poor riding or training create one, just as good riding and correct training develop a responsive horse to the rein aids. This imagery really helps, because the quicker you can release the pressure when your horse gives to the bit, the quicker he'll learn and the softer he'll get. Shorten your reins just enough for you and your horse to be able to communicate comfortably (as in, you don't want to have to pull the reins shorter after he takes off, or conversely, you won't be pulled out of the saddle because the reins were too tight). Trained. Visit equine9 for more horse and pony advice, online saddlery, community and more. Ask for second opinions, do your own research and experiment. Too often a horse that is not accepting the bit creates the opposite image. Join Date: Jun 2010. It is important to avoid any stress or fear for your horse during the training process. (You won't be doing anything with this hand at this point in the sequence, but you want to be ready to use it in a moment.). Young horses are often like little kids - everything ends up in their mouths. Perhaps the horse never had a bit and you went right to a curb which is missing several steps in the horses training. Try it and see what happens. Which book should I get to get all the good basics articles like this. A lot of people ask the horse to go on the bit, and if one way doesn’t work, they start see-sawing or pulling them down. Many groundwork exercises exist and they can be divided into five main groups. Eventually, you'll be able to begin holding a soft feel on the reins for a moment longer before releasing the pressure. The concepts should be the same, but your horse may go better without. Why? Many people ride like this over the long term, and I have done so myself - so I know of what I speak! I've called it "marshmallow contact" in the past because it feels soft and loose and sweet. It can cause a horse to flip over and get hurt or bang his brain on the ground or roof when rearing. If your horse rears somewhere outside of a riding ring, I would modify the above tidbit a bit. Because the curb bit acts on the horse’s mouth, chin, and head, it can be overwhelming. "Go And No": The Connection Between Forward And Half-Halt In Horse Riding: We have to learn the coordination between “go and no” – all the while, keeping our balance to give the appropriate aids while not pulling on the reins. I do not know why you went to a curb bit when a snaffle is milder and tends to not produce the kind of 'fighting the bit' you are experiencing. When first introducing a young horse to the bit, it is best to use a breaking bit with "keys" to encourage salivation, then move onto a double linked bit, such as the french link. Before you even consider mouthing it is essential to have the teeth checked by an Equine Dentist and if necessary Wolf Teeth removed. [Disclaimer: Products we feature have been selected by our editorial staff. (just in thier stable letting them play with it) Then to do any work at all I swap to a french link egbutt snaffle, doesnt give them anything to lean on but is a very very mild bit with very little nutcracker action Use your leg and seat aids to - Go! You can soften your elbows and/or shoulders to give that release. Both these releases, done instantaneously, enable your horse to tell that it's his softening to the bit that you're rewarding. A curb bit is not a good choice for teaching a horse to carry a bit. When your horse has a steady, forward rhythm, your next move will be to pick up on your reins in a specific sequence I'll describe in a moment, plus squeeze with both your legs in the middle of your horse's ribcage to encourage him to maintain his forward movement. Initially, you might be able to coordinate all your aids only once in a while. And some horses work so well in it that you can keep them in it for years. A well-fitted snaffle bit will only act on the horse’s mouth. As soon as he does, of course, I drop the reins as if they're burning me. Is it better to do this on a large circle or on the long sides of the arena? Your horse should already be able to travel around your arena's perimeter, next to the fence, without constant guidance. Almost every horse responds positively if you know how to do it, even if the horse is green or less educated. Ride it! The rider shortens the rein to the point that the horse feels the pressure in his mouth. Great article. Breaking-in prepares the horse for the trainer, teaching it to trot and gallop, remain balanced and calm, and accepting of a bit, a saddle and then a rider. Outfit your horse in a snaffle bit; you'll be riding with two hands for clearest communication. Basically, your release gets the horse's release - forward. The fact is, it did not work. Find a dowel that sticks out about half an inch (1.25 cm) on either side; this dowel is the appropriate width for your bit. The half-halt will help the horse not fall to the forehand. If he opts for the latter set of responses, then this month's arena exercise is for you. ], Clinton Anderson's Downunder Horsemanship: Establishing Respect and Control for English and Western Riders, Clinton Anderson: Lessons Well Learned: Why My Method Words for Any Horse, Training on the Trail: Practical Solutions for Trail Riding, Clinton Anderson Downunder Horsemanship: Gaining Respect and Control on the Ground, Series 1, Clinton Anderson Colt Starting Training Kit, (As an Amazon Associate, we earn from qualifying purchases made through affiliate links.). Of course, that's easier said than done. The only horse I've trained that did not follow this progression was my husband's. 4. The best way to teach her the gait on commands is through the use of a lunge line and whip. One Simple Way to Quiet Your Hands While Riding Horses, Why You Don't Need to Panic When Your Horse "Falls Apart" During Your Ride. £110.00. If she works well in it, there is no real reason to change. That tiny bit of space forward allows him to reach TO THE BIT (not come off the bit). Look at the Meyler level one snaffle with the cheek pieces of your choice, a full cheek could be good for a young horse. A horse’s mouth is a … And I want my horse to come to think that every time I pick up on the reins, the bit becomes a hot potato, and he should immediately soften and get "off" of it. This exercise will teach him to soften at the poll whenever you pick up on both reins while closing your legs. A girth can be too tight, so be sure your horse is comfortable before you mount. My horse tightens and resists in the jaw, even when the head and neck are in the correct frame. It’s in their nature. What To Do When Your Horse Pulls: “Pulling” is something that is absolutely under your control and something you can change if you focus on your aids and timing. How Do You Develop 'Feel' in Horseback Riding? Equine will then be ready for the next weeks work. You must get a response from the hind end. Most horses love this bit and you can usually leave a horse in it for most of his training. Constant bit chewing is often a sign of nervousness, particularly in younger horses, or discomfort. Over time, this teaches your horse to maintain his soft connection with you through the reins. Photo 6: Then reward your horse by letting him trot for a little while on a big, loose rein. Keep trying until you "find" it. Consider lunging for a few minutes before riding and also think about getting out of the arena and going on a nice long trail ride to get rid of some of that extra energy. I'm sure there's more. Indians also loped the horses in deep sand, when possible, up a steep grade, until the horses were too tired to buck—that always took the starch out of them in a hurry. DO NOT break them in a curb or tom thumb or anything that puts leverage on the horses mouth. 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