Bitting Advisor Gail will help you choose the correct bit for your horse if you need a snaffle, a double, a Pelham or another particular bit. Whilst bitting a horse for riding is fundamental, the need for correct bitting in carriage driving is actually much greater. To get the horse to lighten up and respond, I’ll try schooling him with a snaffle that has a mouthpiece that is smaller in diameter… usually a 3/8” mouthpiece. Many horses work well with this bit and it gives you a lot of control without putting a lot of pressure on the horse’s bars. Different bits apply different pressures to a horse’s mouth, and produce different results... but all depending on the horse. You can teach a horse a lot in the Billy Allen. Others are really bothered by it. The design has stood the test of time as one of the best bits ever invented). This bit has some leverage to it but it’s still easy to get lateral flexion because the shanks are loose. I have a horse like this in training right now. Here we have a picture of a 2yr old very green Quarter Horse filly. For 10 years, I trained with a running martingale purely out of habit. Okay, now let’s get back to the bitting process. Side note: Assess your horse’s mouth conformation when the horse is relaxed and with his mouth shut. Okay, so I heard you… “Poppy cock”… allow me to explain. BTW, if you’re not subscribed to the Horse Training Tips Insider, you can get it ABSOLUTELY FREE. The correction mouthpiece will really get the horse responding well… especially for the stop. Either the regular or the thin twisted-wire. Here is where a lot of folks get confused. In this newsletter, I want to try to clarify some of the misconceptions about bits and how to use different types of snaffle bits and curb bits to their best advantage. in the snaffle bit. Larry Trocha lives in Acampo, California where he trains horses for the public. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. With the higher port, there is less tongue pressure and more bar pressure. This week in our Bit Series we will be talking about some good bitting principles. 1 en parlent. Either they refuse to lighten up at all or they will get light for a while and then revert back to being heavy. I recommend riding the horse with it for one or two days to lighten him up and then switch back to the smooth-wire snaffle. For those horses, you are going to have to go to the “next stage” of the bitting process sooner than you would the average horse. Now, this particular horse behaving this way disappoints me but I don’t hold it against the horse. This is also the primary bit I use to teach a horse to neck rein. Horse Bit Hire can help give you the best choice for your horse. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse We provide specialist quality bitting advice and all horse bits for sale and hire. So I’m forced to ride him in a stronger bit most of the time. Gently part the lips at the side and observe if the tongue is bulging through the teeth. What I like about this bit is that it gives the horse the “feel” of being ridden with a curb without scaring the horse. Most horses are going to need a snaffle with a thinner mouthpiece so I’ll go to my absolute favorite snaffle…. This roller “limits” the movement of the mouthpiece. I finally asked myself… why am I wasting time and money on a piece of equipment that doesn’t work? Remember, a horse that is scared or worried will not work to his full potential. A pro’s advice about the bitting processand what bit to use when. One is for horses that are still in the o-ring snaffle. However, sometime during the training process, a horse will need to be lightened up even more. I call it a “thin, smooth-wire Because a horse … That was 15 years ago and I haven’t ridden with one since. A change of girth might be very helpful in this case. very effective. Any performance horse needs to learn to give his head to the direct rein, move his shoulders off the indirect rein and position his ribcage and hindquarters from leg pressure. A steel rod inserted in a horse’s mouth and held in place by the rest of the bridle. The majority of horses will respond well to this. Welcome to another Horse Training Tips Insider. A bitting rig or bitting harness is a training tool for horses that can teach a horse to accept a bridle and bit, and later assist a horse in developing the necessary musculature for a given equestrianism discipline. For the horses that are normally being ridden in an o-ring snaffle, I’ll use a curb bit that has a “correction” mouthpiece and very short, curved-back, “Argentine” shanks (loose shanks). Important note: With some really sensitive horses this is all the snaffle I’ll need. But rather, a basic training or riding issue. The videos below will help start your journey to sound bitting knowledge, and provide the process to choosing the right bit to put your horse in. (Billy Allen was a top trainer who invented this mouthpiece many years ago. Finding the right bit for a particular horse is partly a matter of trial and error; however, with education, the rider can narrow down the possible choices and have a better idea of how and when to … This video brings you world expert, "Bomber Nel's" philosophy on how to bit your horse correctly and the different action of the bits and how they affect the horse. Two: I reference Bomber Nel often throughout this article. A tuning bit is any bit the horse will respect and REALLY listen to. It’s very easy and When often the issue is not a bitting issue. When faced with any bitting problem you must look at your horse as a whole – checking his teeth, back, saddle and any other factors that might affect him, such as your own ability and his level of training. Years ago, “bitting up” was often used to introduce the young horse to a bit. A good way to establish yourself is to keep his head front and center when you are working around him, including for grooming. EVER. Some people also leave off the noseband at this stage and add it later. Ideally, you want both… an educated mouth that responds and is sensitive to light pressure. This is basically a snaffle bit with 5” to 8” shanks (cheeks). I hope this information helps you with your horse training. Transition bits are middle-of-the-road bits used to transition the horse from the snaffle to a regular curb bit. The next bit in the sequence is my favorite transition bit. A comfortable bit won’t train a horse, but it does remove an obstacle to training. “Bitting is key when your horse is young. The horse is already familiar with the snaffle mouthpiece so the only thing he needs to adjust to is the curb action of the shanks. The reason is because it works on different pressure points than a regular snaffle bit. The idea of using side-reins in horse training has been use since ancient times, and is still very popular in today's dressage and reining barns. Another bit that I sometimes use to lighten a horse up is a “draw” or “gag” bit. Even though it works well, be aware that a “twisted” mouthpiece is abrasive and can sore a horse’s mouth if it’s used too many days in a row or too harshly. I’ll stay with the smooth-wire snaffle just as long as I can. After the horse has a good idea of what is expected of him and is pretty far along, I’ll start riding the horse in a “transition bit”. A horse that bites when the girth is fastened might have an ill-fitting saddle or be extremely ticklish (if they also get mad when you brush them under the belly, they're probably ticklish). It’s the best horse training aid there is. Enlightened Bitting – Managing The Sensitive Mouth. However, the horse might be in pain. They whatever bit I normally ride him in. for teaching a horse how to position himself and use his body correctly. Now, don’t confuse a mouth that is merely “sensitive” with a mouth that is “educated”. The horse gets the feel of a mouthpiece that is almost “solid” like a regular curb bit yet Especially the older horses that are being tuned up or re-trained. 1.3K likes. You want him to associate his effort to bite with a distracting tap on his shin. My favorite training snaffle has a thin, smooth mouthpiece that is 3/16” in diameter. Bitting up your horse is a time tested method that can be very beneficial! Horse Bitting Consultants. Once he knows how to work, then you can step him up to a curb bit. From this point on, it’s just a matter of experimenting with different bits to see what the horse While oxen could be guided from a ring in their nose, horses apparently did not respond well to that approach, and almost as soon as evidence of domestic horses first appeared in a region, the bit also appeared. The other, I use on horses that are in a You want him attentive and responding well but not afraid. Even though I’m advancing the horse in the bitting process, I still want the curb bit to have “loose” shanks. Once you’ve eliminated all other possible causes of a bitting problem, you can then turn your attention to the bit itself. Ideally, the horse should be taught to do everything that you want him to while being ridden in the snaffle bit. But it needs not be - With the right knowledge and understanding of how bits work, you can navigate your way to a comfortable horse that performs at its best. https://www.horseandrideruk.com/expert-advice/articles/bitting-your-horse Saddles. Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse Horse Bitting Consultants work with you to find the perfect bit to communicate clearly with your horse Most colts should be started in a snaffle bit. For those horses, the next bit I’ll use will be a low-port mouthpiece with 8” loose shanks (cheeks). as lightly as he should. The horse will be taught the majority of what he needs to know wearing this bit. And, many older horses that need fixing should also be schooled in a snaffle bit. Horse Bits & Bitting. The three horses who got their first bits at my hands started that way. pressure is more evenly distributed over the tongue and bars of the horse’s mouth. in the snaffle bit. The bit itself is a vital communication tool between us and the horse. still has some “flex” to it. Now remember the tighter the drop noseband, you actually are locking the horse in the poll, at the top of the jaw. Lighter in the mouth. Curb bits are for “refining” the training that you have accomplished with the snaffle. But NOT so strong that it scares the horse. Again, as soon as the horse lightens up and is responding well, I’ll If you want to try a piece of equipment that DOES HELP a horse learn to give to your hands, supple-up and flex at the poll… use a German martingale. For a ridden horse we then have in addition to this our seat and leg aids, clearly not something we have in driving. Many years ago I had a very extreme experience. Then, I’ll move on to the next bit in the transition process. Mainly the horse’s tongue, lips and bars of the mouth. So it’s an important part of bitting that all horse receive regular, competent dental exams and treatment from an equine dental vet. However, most horses will eventually need to be moved up into a regular, solid-mouthpiece, curb bit. You start by putting just the bridle on, with no bit. It’s just part of horse nature to take the easy way out and slack off. Specific riding disciplines use one type of bit more than another. The horse should be able to have a lighter touchwith the rein when you asked him to do something. So, if you want your horse to be a reining horse, you should teach him to stop, spin, change leads etc. The bit In my opinion, the running martingale DOES NOT work well. The practice of using a stronger bit to lighten a horse up and then switching back to a milder bit for every day riding, works really well to preserve the horse’s mouth while keeping him working right. I stay with this until the horse is too heavy in it and I can’t get him to respond Horse training videos and DVDs by reining and cutting horse trainer, Larry Trocha. 2 talking about this. A bit is only a communication tool and should only be used to handle a horse, not to hurt them. They don’t know what bit to go to next. Fix horses that buck, rear, bite, kick, spook. Generally, the horse should stay in some form of o-ring snaffle bit until he is well along in his training. Transition bits are the stepping stones between the green horse and the finished horse. And you stay with that mild bit until the colt doesn’t respond to it well enough anymore.